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Diary of Journeys to London from the South of Ireland in 1761 and 1762 by Mr George Boles

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Date: 1761 to 1762
Location: London, Englandmap
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INTRODUCTION

Mr. George Boles, or Bowles, of Mountprospect, in the County of Cork (and near to Tallow, in the County of Waterford), was a member of a County Cork family, believed to be a branch of the ancient family of Bolles in Lincolnshire, and was twenty-two years of age when the Diary now published was written. He was educated for the medical profession, but gave it up with a view to enter the army; and it appears to have been for the purpose of obtaining a commission that he undertook the journey to London which an account is now given.

The Diary covers a period of but four and a half months, during which time Mr Bowles travelled from the Cove of Cork - the present Queenstown - via Bristol to London, where he arrived shortly before the marriage and coronation of King George III, to which references are made. Afterwards, on obtaining a commission in the 100th Foot, he went to York, from which place he was sent to Jersey, whence he returned to London, and exchanged into the 7th ("Queen's Own") Dragoons. Subsequently he obtained leave of absence, and returned home to Ireland, where he stayed about two months, for which he gives no record, and at the expiration of that time he returned to London via Dublin, Holyhead, Chester, etc.

As may be expected, the Diary contains much information as to the manner of travelling in England at the time, as well as to the means of communication between that country and Ireland; and as Mr. Bowles recorded a great deal of what came under his notice when in the different places he passed through, with his own impressions thereon, the journal is of considerable interest.

Mr. Bowles, who did not remain long in the service, married in 1764, Dorothea, daughter of Henry Hunt, Esq., of Friarstown, County Limerick, and died in 1802.

T. GEO. H. GREEN, M.R.I.A. Dublin

DIARY - PART I.

On Monday morning, the 30th day of August, 1761, I embarked on board the Good Ship the King of Prussia, Capt. Gardner, bound to Bristoll, at the Cove of Corke: at seven that morning we weighed anchor and got under sail in Company with the Fowey Man of War of 40 Guns, having several Ships under her convoy bound to the West Indies. Capt. French of Corke, bound for Bristol, sailed about an hour before us, at nine we parted with the fleet & bore away after Capt. French, who was two leagues ahead of us - a moderate gale of wind at North-west. At twelve we fell in with a fleet of Ships bound to the westward, convoyed by one Man of War. Our Capt. Hid his best men for fear of being pressed, till we had passed the Man of War, who soon after enquiring our course left us. At four this afternoon came up with Capt. French and bid him the go-bye. I could perceive a kind of emulation between both Capts. Whose ship sailed the best, but ours has infinitely the advantage. Being extremely sea sick most part of this day, left the deck at Six in the evening & betook myself to the Cabin, where I found my fellow-Passengers in much the same situation. My fellow-Sufferers named were Capt. Greenfield, a Gent. of the army on half pay: Mr. Van-Nost, the famous Statuary, Mr. Morris, a Young Gentleman going to the Temple, & Mrs. Ashcroft, a Quaker Lady going to her husband.

The Ship rowling very much, this night could not Sleep, but falling into a dose was about seven o'clock awakened by the cries of the Sailors, Land! Land! which proved to be the Island of Lundie, distance about five leagues. This Island is about three miles in length, of an oblong form, situated at the Mouth of the Bristol Channel, high & at most places inaccessible: at present uninhabited but some time ago the rendezvous of One Benson, who here carried on a most extensive smuggling trade, till at length ousted from hence by his Capts: and forced himself to fly.

I was extremely diverted here with an odd custom of the Sailors about paying their bottle & Pound, every one who has never been here before being obliged to give the Sailors a bottle of Rum & pound of Sugar or be tucked up to the yard arm and dunked from thence three several times in the sea. All our passengers to avoid that disagreeable circumstance, were obliged to comply with it. At eight this morning, having dressed myself & gone on deck saw plainly the main land of England on our larboard [? Starboard] quarter, which as informed by the Capt: was part of Cornwall, distance about Six leagues: at eleven being abreast of Lundie Isle, saw a small Skiff standing for us, which proved to be a fishing boat from Ilford-Combe [Ilfracombe]. Being under great way at the rate of eight & a half knots an hour was obliged to Shorten Sail till she came up with us. We got out of her a Pilot to carry us up Channel. We could now see Capt: French whom we run out of sight the night before crowding all his sails between us and the Welch Shore: having got in our Pilot, we stood away and run for it as before. About two were abreast of Ilford-Combe, a Port town in Devonshire, & at four came up to Mine head where were several Ships at anchor. At night-fall sailed between the Holms, tow islands 22 leagues from Lundie, on one of which, called the flat holms, is a light house from whence came off to us another Pilot who carried us up to King- Road, where we came to an anchor about twelve that night. Here were four men of war & several large outward bound Ships. As soon as we came to an anchor I went to bed & Slept four three hours heartily which greatly refreshed me. At the turn of the tide we again weighed to run up the Bristol and hearing them, got up & came on deck, it being just dawn of day: could see Capt. French at anchor close under our Stern, he having come up five hours after us. As soon as we had Set Sail, came on board us a Man of Wars boat to impress our hands, which the Capt: was aware of & hid his best men in the hold. Among the Men of Wars men Knew one Donroach that served his time to Mrs. Mills, & has been in the Navy since the commencement of the war. At King-Road saw a Man hanging in Chains at high-water mark, who suffered there for Murder. A very fine country on each side of us as we come up, finely cultivated an adorned with Gentlemen's Seats. At seven passed by Pill a small straggling town within five miles of Bristol, inhabited chiefly by sea-faring people. Mr. Southwell's house near this place looks charmingly from the water.

Nothing, especially to one coming in from Sea, can equal the variety of Country sweets on each side of the River Severn as you come up here. The trees, houses, agreable Villas of the Merchants of Bristol, all contribute to make it delicious to the Eye. At nine passed by the Hot wells where we saw a vast concourse of Gentry, & being towed up by a large boat arrived safely at the Custom House Quay at ten o'clock amidst an innumerable quantity of Ships.

Having landed, Mr. Morris & I took up our lodging at the White Hart in Broad-Street, the landlord of which being an Obliging person shewed us every thing worth seeing in & about Bristol, which took us up this and the following day. Bristol is an ancient, rich, and populous City, somewhat larger than the City or Corke in Ireland, the streets extremely narrow and badly contrived : but many handsome Structures both public and private, the Church of St. Mary's Ratcliffe is a fine old building in the Gothic taste, computed a mile in circumference, the altar-piece finely painted by Mr. Hogarth, which cost the City 500 Guineas. It represents the ascension of our Lord, the Sealing of the Tomb, and the two Angels in white apparel appearing to Mary Magdalene & Simon Peter telling them their Master was not there but gone before them into Gallilee. Here is likewise the monument to the great Sr. Wm. Penn the first settler of Pennsylvania, who here lies buried.

There are several other public places and fine Squares, such as Queen's Square where stands an handsome Equestrian Statue in Brass of his late Majestie. Eighteen parish Churches of an ancient structure but extremely handsome.

One custom they have peculiar I believe to themselves : that the Daughter of every free Man of the City is by an act of Queen Elizabeth's free, and her husband entitled to the same favour.

We had the pleasure of seeing most of the Gentry of Gloucestershire walk in procession to St. Thomas' Church, this being the Anniversary feast, & saw them dine at the Assembly room. The design of this institution is to raise a fund to put out the poor boys of the Shire to free tradesmen of Bristol, by which means they in time become useful members to Society and arrive at great riches. They made an handsome appearance, & were preceded by the boys dressed decently, & each of them carrying a white wand. They that day raised 800 Gs. for that Charity. Having visited the Hotwells near Bristoll & seen every thing worth notice in and about the City, my friend the Templar and I took seats in the Stage Coach for London, or as they call it there the Machine which goes in two days. We payed One Pound Seven Shillings each, and are ordered to be at the White Lyon in Broad Street by 4 o'clock Fryday morning.

This morning at 4 we set out from the White Lyon for London accompanied by two Gent: more; this Machine is a very easy and safe Carriage.

At Six we came to the famous City of Bath distance about Eleven miles; having stayed here for an hour to satisfye our Curiousity by the particular indulgence of our Coachman who by the bye was well paid for that favour.

Bath is the handsomest City in England, as they told us; small but on account of the waters extremely neat & gay. The Circus will when finished be a most compleat building. Near this place they get the famous stone called Bath stone, very soft and easily worked but grows by degrees extremely durable. From Bath we came to Chippenham where we breakfasted : a small neat market town full of French Officers who are here upon their parole not to go above a mile from town. From Chippenham we came to Calne; a market town nothing remarkable in it, but the first town we met with on the borders of Wiltshire which is somewhere here parted from Gloucestershire. About half way from this to Marlborough is a vast plain called Marlborough Downs seven miles in Circumference : a fine Corn Country, but scarce a tree or Shrub to be seen. Not far from this lies the town of Marlborough, a pretty neat town built of brick and tile; here we dined and got a fresh relay of horses. From thence we passed on to Hungerford, a small town in the County of Berks, & making no delay here arrived at Six in the Evening at Newbury, a large and neat town where we propose staying this night, having this day travelled Sixty-five miles, & having Slept the night before in Somersetshire breakfasted in Gloucestershire dined in Wiltshire & supped in Berkshire.

Newbury is a handsome and large town pleasantly situated on the River Kennett, noted for being the birthplace of Jack of Newbury, who on a certain occasion brought into the field an 100 Clothiers of his own employing to help his Sovereign. Its trade is chiefly in the woollen manufacture which is here carried on very extensively; has a very handsome market house & Church and is just fifty mile from Hyde park in London.

Saturday, Sept - This morning at five left Newbury & passing through several market Towns came about nine o'Clock to the Town of Reading, a large & as they tell us the prettiest Country town in England, the Shire town of Berkshire, & famous for being the burying place of Henry the Second & his Concubine fair Rosamond. The Church in which these monuments stand was built in the Reign of William Rufus.

From Reading we came to Maidenhead, a pretty town near the borders of Middlesex, the River of Thames flowing hard by. That river we passed at this place over a large stone bridge, & came to a small town called Slough in Middlesex, where we dined, & went to see the famous Castle of Windsor, formerly a Hunting Seat of our Kings, now the country residence of the Duke of Cumberland, who is Ranger of the forest that is adjacent to it. In this Castle which is extremely magnificent are several fine pieces of painting &c. Hercules spinning for Omphale Queen of Lydia drawn by the famous Rubens is inimitable. Leaving this sweet place with regret, we went to see Eaton school, a fine old building adjacent to it, accounted the greatest school in England.

Having dined we Set out from hence & came to Colnebrook a small town; near this place we crossed Hounslow heath, a large Common famous for Robberies. Here we saw several gibbets on the heath, I reckoned as we passed them nine malefactors hanging in Chains; a most shocking sight. Before we crossed this heath we met with an alarming circumstance that not a little disturbed us. Having stopped to take a glass of wine at an Inn between Colnbrook & Hounslow, while we were within, the Coachman, or some other associates of the Highwaymen who frequent that place, drew the powder of the pistolls we left in the Coach & left the ball in the barrels; this we should not have found out till too late, & we should have been inevitably robbed, had not I by mere accident expressed my fears of our meeting Highwaymen, & at the same time proposed each Gent: should take a pistol & stand on the defensive in case we were attacked. This we agreed on and trying mine we found out the cheat. We immediately recharged, & were hardly done when a man well mounted and genteely dressed rode up to the Coach door, presented his pistol & demanded our watches & money. We parlyed and told him the mistake he lay under if he supposed our Pistolls were not charged, and at the same time assured him if he did not ride off immediately we would fire at him; he took us at our words & rode off in full gallop. The Coachman we thought in the secret but durst not openly express our suspicion. Having got rid in this manner of our troublesome visitor, we drove to Hounslow a town not far from the heath. Making no delay here drove thro' Turnham Green, Hammersmith, Kensington, at which place his Majesty Now is waiting for the first news of his intended Queens landing, & which is expected every moment. Here is a fine seat where his Majesty generally resides during the Summer season.

Leaving this fine place we came to Knightsbridge, & from thence came in to London about seven o'Clock in the Evening, & put up at the Bell at the back of new Church on the Strand, without any further accident, thank God. Sunday morning was agreably surprised with the ringing of Bells, firing the Park & Tower Guns and other demonstrations of Joy on the agreable news of the Queens landing at Harwich the Sixth inst. at five in the evening after a ten days voyage. My friend & I dressed and went to St. Martin's Church & afterwards walked in the Park, saw a vast crowd of Nobility & Gentry at St. James going to pay their Compliments on the intended Queens arrival. The remainder of this & the next day spent in search of Colonel Græme but without success, on Tuesday morning found out Mr. Gosling who lived on Tower Hill & is agent to the Col, was informed that the Colonel soon after his arrival had taken a country seat at a place called Isleworth about 9 miles from Town & directed me Col. Alexander Harvie who had married Mrs. Græme's sister for further accounts of him & lived at Red Lyon Square.

Thither I immediately went and to my great Joy found my Cousin and family there, having come to town the night before. My Cousin on ready my Aunt's letter & thereby knowing who I was, very affectionately bid me welcome, & politely presented me to the Company as his dear Cousin & insisted on removing immediately from my former lodging to this house. Here was great entertained for a week, was carried by the Colonel to see the curiousitys in & about this great City, & went that night to Drury Lane Playhouse, where I saw Mr. Garrick act the part of Richard the Third.

This evening about 3 o'clock our intended Queen arrived at St. James, where she was received by the Duke of Devonshire as Lord Chamberlain, then by His Royal Highness the Duke of York, who handed her up the steps, & was met by his Majesty half way, the Princess made an offer of Kneeling on his Majesty's approach, but he prevented her by catching her in his arms, & carried her upstairs kissing her hand all the way. He then presented her to his Mother & brothers & sisters who all congratulated her on her happy arrival. Their Majesties then withdrew, & about 9 o'Clock that Evening the Princess, preceded by 120 Ladies in extreme rich dresses, was handed to the Chapel royal by the Duke of York, attended by Six Young Ladies, daughters of Dukes as her bride maids, & her train supported by Six Ladies, daughters of Earls. The ceremony was performed by the Arch Bishop of Canterbury & the Duke of Cumberland gave her hand to his Majesty.

After the Ceremony there was a public drawing room & the evening concluded with the greatest illuminations & all other demonstrations of joy.

Spent the remainder of this week at Mr. Harvies; went to Covent Garden Playhouse to see Romeo & Juliet, went the next night to Vauxhall where we saw a vast number of company dressed most richly, heard several fine pieces of music.

14 Sept. saw the grand procession of the Lord Mayor Aldermen &c. going to Court to pay their compliments of congratulations on the happy nuptialls; the cavalcade consisted of 300 coaches.

19th being Sunday the Colonel carried me to Court where I saw their Majesties & the rest of the Royal Family at Chapel. His Majesty was dressed in a suit of Gold brocade, a tall genteel Person, his face much disfigured with as Scorbutic disorder. Her Majesty was dressed in white and Silver and a Crosslet of Jewels on her head; low of Stature, extremely pale, and in my opinion ordinary. Duke of York much lower than the King, of a fair Complexion round-faced and good features. Lady Augusta, the King's Eldest Sister, tall & majestic, a good face something like the Duke of York, but running greatly into flesh. Her dress was white & silver adorned with a number of Jewells. The rest of the young Princes & Princesses very like each other & in general a very handsome set.

Her Majesty came just after the King & was handed by Her Chamberlayne the Duke of Manchester. After Prayers there was a most brilliant Court & their Majesties retired at three. Saw this day at Court Monsignor Bussy the French ambassador the Morrocco & Tripoly ambassadors dressed in their Country fashion. Most of this week spent in Company with the Colonel's family in viewing the public places. They, not having seen them before, saw the curiosities of the Tower, the Mansion House, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Monument reckoned 750 steps to the top, & taking boat at London Bridge was carried to Westminster Abbey, where saw the monuments of our late Kings, & other persons whose memory deserved to be recorded to Posterity; sat in St. Edward the Confessors Chair & was obliged to pay the fine, sat in the Chairs the King & Queen were to be crowned in, was prevented from seeing the rest by the number of workmen who were here employed erecting seats for the Nobility & others for the Coronation which is fixed for the 22nd inst.

Went from hence to buy seats to see that magnificent sight, & after trying several places at last procured tickets for the Abbey for the Colonel's & Mrs. Harvie's families at the low rate of 120 guineas. Nothing can exceed the infatuation of the people to see that ceremony; strangers flocking from all parts, which makes the Tickets bear a high price. Mem. Sir Alexander Grant a Scottish Bart. & relation of the Colonel wife gave 100 Guineas for a room in New Palace Yard to see the procession, therefore have my choice, being complimented by Sir Alex. either to see the Coronation or the procession, but chuse the former. 17th inst. went with the Colonel & family to his seat at Isleworth, a magnificent house & furnished in the newest taste, pleasantly seated on the River Thames, & having a pleasant view of Richmond Gardens which are on the other side the Thames. Spent our time very pleasantly here till the 21st, the day before the Coronation. Having seen while here Richmond a Royal seat of the Kings & remarkable for its fine walks & gardens not to be equalled in Europe. Kew the residence of His Majesty when Prince of Wales, & Kensington, another seat belonging to his Majesty & much admired for its fine walks & neighbourhood to London. 21 Sept. came to town in Company with the Colonel & his family & was obliged to go that night to Westminster Hall, being obliged to that inconvenience on account of the number of spectators which would make it difficult for us to get to our places in the morning. At twelve got to our seats & was extremely diverted with the chat of several very agreable Ladies with whom we diverted ourselves till morning. Day light breaking in discovered as agreable a sight as I ever before beheld; the galleries filled with Ladies and Gents: dressed in the utmost taste. About nine o'clock their Majesties came privately in Chairs from St. James to the hall. The King went into a room which they call the court of wards & the Queen into that belonging to the Gent: usher of the Black Rod. The Nobility & others who were to walk in the procession were mustered & ranged by the officer of Arms in the Court of request, Painted Chamber, & house of Lords, form whence the whole cavalcade was conducted into Westminster hall. Their Majesties being robed came into the hall and took their seats at the upper end under magnificent Canopies of Crimson Velvet. Her Majesty Chair was on the left hand of his Majesties.

[A very full account of the Coronation ceremonies follows; but as it is practically identical with the account given in the Annual Register for 1761, we have not thought it necessary to print it. - ED.]

The Coronation hurry being now over, went with the family to Isleworth where I stayed till the 28 inst. Having that day received an account from Dublin, that it would yet be a considerable time ere I could procure my Ensigns Commission, by the Joint advice of my friends here thought it best to purchase in this Kingdom; therefore wrote to Mr. Ross a Commission broker to procure me one. Having and answer immediately to my satisfaction that an Ensigncy was to be sold for 300 Guineas in the 100 Regiment of Foot called the Queens Volunteers hunters, imparted the news to my Cousin who immediately accounted with me for 500 Barbados Currency which in England came but to 325£ stg there being 35 per Cent. Exchange. As the Colonel remitted me from Barbados in Sept. 1759 a bill for 185 £ consequently there remained no more due to me than 140£ but that kind relation gave me bills on his banker for 300 Guineas, hereby making me a present of 175 Pounds English Money, 100 Pounds of which I have made a promise to myself of advancing to my Sister Anne the day of her Marriage, & which promise I made known to my Cousin who was generously pleased to applaud me for. As my presence in London was no absolutely necessary to compleat my Commission I that Evening took leave of Doctor Cousin & his family of the Emerald set out in my Cousins Chariot for London.

Driving on pretty Smartly, we had not got above a mile from Hammersmith, when we were stopt by two men, one on horse back the Other on foot, & were soon made sensible of their business by the footman coming up to the Chariot with a Cockt Pistoll & demanded our Money, while the Horseman with his Kept the Coachman from proceeding. Capt Middleton pretended to feel his pockets but instead of money drew out a small Pistol, fired & brought him down. The horse man seeing the fate of his Comrade rode up, fired his Pistol into the Chariot & rode off. The ball grazed my left shoulder & lodged in the back of the Chariot. We secured the Wounded Man, who seemed to be very much hurt, & had him conveyed to Kensington, where leaving him, we pursued our Journey and arrived in London without any further accident.

28th of Sept. having lodged my Money with notification was made out for an Ensigncy in the 100 Regiment & was introduced to Lieut. Col. Commandant Colin Campbell & got orders to Join the Regiment at York. Colonel Campbell was pleased to approve of me & spoke to the Secretary at War The Hon. Mr. Townshend in my favour. That Gent: understanding my case with regard to Lord Halifax, put me upon applying to his Lordship for a vacant Lieutenantcy when in our Regiment & generously offered me his interest. I accordingly set forth my case to his Lordship in a letter, and having repeated orders to Join my Regiment, set out by way of the Stage the next morning for York. At that City I arrived the third day, & was introduced & had the pleasure of treating my Brother officers at the Tavern. Capt. Nightingale t whose Company I belonged was particularly civil, instructing me in the dutys of my office &c. & have commenced a friendship which it shall be always my chief Study to cultivate, the most of Our Officers agreable men, most of them Scotch, & in general excessively proud.

The 18th of this Month (October) was most agreably surprised at an account I received from London by a Letter for Mr. Ross of my being appointed a first Lieutenant, the 13th inst., in the same Regiment in the room of my Worthy Friend Capt. Nightingales Brother being appointed a Capt. in the 66th Regiment. As this sudden promotion was owing to the Lord Lieutts. influence I immediately wrote his Lordship a letter of thanks which was forwarded to him in Ireland, and my sudden rise was attended with the admiration & envy of some especially the Younger Officers of my Corps. About this time I received orders to recruit for the Regiment in the North of England, & on my application to the Secretary at War obtained his leave to go for Ireland on that service, having first recruited in Lancashire the Bishoprick of Durham & Cheshire, & was cautioned to be circumspect in raising men in Ireland, as it was disagreable to the Lord Lieutenant, & the Government there.

Having got my beating orders I set out from York the 22nd with one Serjant, one Corporal & one Drum, which men I have orders to leave at Chester there to receive any men I may recruit in Ireland, & have a power granted to me to make any one I please a Serjant to assist me in Ireland. This day the 31st I arrived at Lancaster with indifferent success, having attested but three, & there met with an old acquaintance, Mr Irwin from Corke, who intends going from hence to Chester in his way to Ireland the 2nd Nov. & have agreed to go in his Company.

Received this day a most unwelcome order from the War Office to repair to Southampton there to embark with draughts from our Regiment to reinforce the Garrison of Jersey. With a heavy heart instead of going for Ireland was obliged the next day to set out for Southampton, where I arrived the 3rd., & found there Capt. Nightingale, who commands our Detachment, three Lieutenants & four Ensigns of our Regiment with 200 of our best men.

Having this day embarked them on board the Royal William Transport, sailed for Jersey with the Wind at North West under convoy of the Unicorn Man of War, Capt. Philips, and this day at 4 in the evening anchored in Port St. Hilary in this Island.

Jersey is a small Island about 12 miles long & 30 in Circumference lying in the Mouth of the British Channel, about 15 miles from Normandy in France which country we could plainly see. Pretty well inhabited, having most necessaries of life, the inhabitants having the politeness of their Neighbours the French & sincerity of their Masters the English. This & the Isle of Guernsey are the only remains of our former possessions in France.

Having disembarked our men & delivered them up to Colonel Campbell in whose regiment they are to be incorporated, for the Ten days we remained here we spent very agreably, the inhabitants, especially the fair sex, being fond of strangers. I met here with a County Man a Brother of Dr. Powers of Tallow, a Gent: who treated me civilly & carries on very extensive trade being a Wine merchant & in good circumstances.

The 15th was obliged to leave this place with regret, and according to instructions sailed in the Royal William Transport for England, but meeting very bad weather was four days before we made the land; and came to an anchor in Southampton the 19th. & the next day in Company with our Officers, except Lieut. Piers & Ensign Williams arrived in London.

This day was informed by my worthy friend Mr. Ross of his having procured a change of Commissions between Sir Robt. Laurie of General Mostyns Dragoons and me upon my paying him down two hundred Guineas having got the Secretary at Wars permission & who thought it a very fine thing for me. Our Regiment being under orders to go to Guadaloupe, & being advised to it in the most strenuous manner by all my friends here, gave Sir Robt. a bill on Mr. Clarke in Dublin for 200 Guineas and having our several notifications made out at the War Office commence pay this day the 20th November, & am now in the Seventh Regiment of Dragoons called the Queens Own Regiment & commanded by Lieut.-General Mostyn, having a Cornets Commission with the rank of Lieutenant and the daily pay of 8.6 English.

As I am determined to see Ireland this winter, the first visit paid my new Colonel at his house in Dover Street, begged his interest, who was pleased to grant me leave of absence to the 1st of February, 1762, but recommended it to me first to join the Light troop at Epsom in Surry, 15 miles from London, which I have promised to do, and intend setting out for that place to-morrow. The general was pleased to invite me to Dinner the first time I came to Town.

22nd arrived at Epsom and produced my Credentialls to the Commanding Officer, Capt. Ball, who behaves very politely & is also an Irishman, a native of Wexford. All agree they never heard of a Cheaper purchase as my new Commission is worth One Thousand Guineas or Pounds at least, & find Sir Robt. would be obliged to lay down his Commission if he had not met with a purchaser so soon, as by his late behaviour he was very obnoxious to the General & the officers in general - a most lucky circumstance for me.

Our Regiment is really a fine body consisting of Seven Troops, one of which is light & contains 130 effective men, which cloathed in the Hussar fashion made a fine appearance. I find the great difference of this service from the Foot and am now sure of standing, this Regiment being one of the oldest in the Kings Service, whereas the late Regiment I belonged to is one of the Youngest.

Having received a beating order to recruit for the Queens Dragoons & liberty to be absent till the 1st of February, hired a Post Chaise for Chester which cost me Five guineas, and in Company with Lieut. Rowan of our Regiment set out from the Axe Inn in Aldermanbury at 4 o'clock Wednesday Evening the * of November & arrived at 8 at night at a small town in Middlesex called Kitstown distance from London 13 miles; supped and lay there (bill 7.0.) At six o'clock Thursday morning set out for Kits Town and arrived at Redbourne in Hertfordshire 12 miles, breakfasted (bill 2.0.) and passing through St Albans, Dunstable, &c. a mean town in Bedfordshire, arrived at a small town called Hockley in the hole in Northamptonshire & distanced from Redbourne 13 miles; having baited here (bill 2.6.) set out from hence and arrived after night at a small town on the borders of Northampton & Warwickshire called Stony Stratford 14 miles form Hockley. Here we supped & lay all night (bill here 2.0/-) distanced from Stony Stratford 12 miles; at 2 arrived at Daventry a small town distanced from Fosters booth 8 miles, baited here, and at night fall arrived at a small village 9 miles from hence called Dunchurch. Here we supped & lay (bill 5.0/-) and setting out from hence at Six on Satturday morning arrived at about 9 at the famous City of Coventry, the Capital of Warwickshire, and remarkable for its extensive trade in Silken Manufactures. Here we breakfasted (bill 2.0.) & distanced from Dunchurch 12 miles, and setting out from this handsome City arrived at a Village called Meridan about Six miles from Coventry, baited here and arrived at a small town called Coleshill, 6 miles distance, dined here (bill 3.6.) and about night arrived at the City of Litchfield in Staffordshire, a handsome large & populous town. Here we supped & lay (bill 6.0.) 15 miles from Coleshill.

[We omit the rest of the journey to Chester. It is simply a record of distances and charges, as shown in the concluding part of the last section printed. - ED.]

Spent the next day in viewing everything curious in this ancient city [Chester], and finding it very precarious to wait for a shop at Park gate bound for Dublin, hired horses here for Holyhead in the Isle of Anglesea, distance from Chester 91 miles. By great difficulty hired five horses for ourselves, Guide & baggage, & in company with Lieut. Abbott of the marines who here joined us set out from Chester at 7 o'clock Wednesday morning. Bill at Chester at the Coach & Horses £1:1:0, & paid 17 shillings apiece for every horse. At 11 o'clock arrived at Holywell a pretty large Town in Flintshire in North Wales, distance from Chester 20 miles; breakfasted here, bill 5.0, and arrived at night at a small town in Denbighshire called Rutland, 15 miles from Holywell, a bad road almost impassable.

Supped at this miserable place & at 11 o'clock having passed over a dangerous ferry arrived at Conway, a walled [town] & formerly a place of great Strength, but now falling to decay. [It] is a seaport town distanced from Rudland 16 miles, and is the capital of Carnarvon shire, breakfasted here (bill 4.4.) & arrived in the evening at Bangor, a bishops see, distance from Conway 20 miles, a very dangerous road over steep and craggy mountains whose summits seem to touch the clouds, and fords where the tide coming in always with vast rapidity makes them often prove fatal to the unhappy passengers.

Crossing over the channell which at Bangor divides Wales from the Isle of Anglesea we this night arrived at Portwithis in this Island. Here we supped & lay (bill 9.0.) and at 12 Friday morning arrived at the half way house 12 miles & a half distance from Portwithis. Breakfasted here (bill 2.6.) and at four the evening arrived at Holyhead 12 miles and a half distance for the half way house & 91 measured miles from Chester. Lay here this night & at four o'Clock Satturday evening embarked on board the Besborough packet boat, Capt. Richd. Taylor, and immediately weighing anchor stood out to sea. At 12 o'clock at night having a fine gale of wind at North east saw the light house on the hill of Howth, and at 3 o'Clock on Sunday morning came to an anchor in Pool Beg in Dublin harbour, distance from Holyhead 20 leagues.

Stayed in Dublin with the Worthy Major Cane who introduced me at the Castle &c. & seldom ever parted from me till I set out from thence which was Thursday Morning at Seven o'Clock.

Thursday the 10th of December set out in the Kilkenny Stage from the Robin Hood in Dame Street, paid 14 Shillings for the run to Kilkenny, & 5.8. for baggage; breakfasted this morning at the Black Horse in Johnstown (bill 1.6.) distance from Dublin 12½ miles, rid through Nass, baited at Kilcullen bridge 20 miles from Dublin & proceeded to Timolin a small town in the County of Kildare where I lay (bill 5.5.). Fryday morn at Seven set out from Timolin and going thro Carlow Town, Castledermot &c. arrived about 12 at noon at a small town in the County of Carlow called Leighlinbridge, distance from Dublin 44 miles; breakfasted here (bill 1.5.) & about six in the evening arrived in the City of Kilkenny, distance from Dublin 56 miles. Having staid with Mr. Charters for two days who treated me with great affection, set out from Kilkenny on Monday morning, lay that night at Clonmell, and Tuesday evening the 15th day of December 1761 at 3 o'Clock arrived in Youghal, being absent from this Town Just Three Months and 16 days, which concludes this part of my Journal.

"Sit Gloria Deo."

PART II.

On Fryday Morning, the 19th day of February, 1762, I set out from Tallow and arrived at Callen, a small town in the County of Kilkenny, on my way to England, having received an Order from the War Office to join my Regiment without delay, now at winter Quarters in Burgholtshannon in the Prussian Country of Ravensberghe.

Saturday Morning I came to Kilkenny and by the desire of Major Cane of the Royal Dragoons, went on Monday morning to Donaghmore, a small Town in the Queen's County, there to treat with Cornet Kirwan of the same regiment about an Exchange of Commissions which he had signified a desire of some time before to the Major & had actually come to Kilkenny the Sunday before in order to meet me. Staid this night & most of the following at the Barracks and have made the Exchange on Conditional Terms, viz., having a Month allowed me to retract should it not be agreeable to my Friends in England, or that I am out of danger of being broke on a Peace by getting the Seniority of two of our cornets, or that I am obliged to join the Corps. in Germany. These being the Conditional articles of our Agreement which is immediately to take place, should the above be otherwise than here expressed.

Having compleated this affair to our Mutual Satisfaction & imparted it to my Worthy Friend the Mayor, on account of whom I was inclined to an Exchange & taking a tender farewell both of him, & my worthy Relations Mr. & Mrs. Charters, Mr. Jos. Delehay, &c. both of whom kindly accompanied me so far on my Journey, & having from thence wrote to my Brother to join me in London with my Baggage &c, without delay left Kilkenny on Thursday Morn, & baiting at the Royal Oaks, dining at Carlow, lying at Timolin this night in the County of Kildare distanced from Kilkenny 31 miles.

Fryday Morning, set out from Timolin & breakfasting at Johnstown arrived in Dublin at four this evening.

Satturday Morning waited on Lord Grandison at his house in Suffolk Street. His Lordship received me very politely, & has promised me his interest and protection, & desires me never to use any ceremony whin I think he can be of service to me, & recommends my continuing for some time on the English Establishment, & desires I may wait on the Lord Lieut. when he arrives in London which will be in April, his Lordship taking it upon him to excuse my non attendance on his Excellency, as I have left my Regimentals behind me. Went to see Mr. Hunt, who proposed an Exchange with an Officer in the 8th Regiment who I believe is his son, but which I rejected.

On Monday at one in the Morning came on board the Besborough Pacquett boat, Capt. Richd. Taylor, lying at Pool Beg in Dublin Harbour, it being the first day of March 1762. At half after One we weighed, sailed with the Wind at North west, & had at four run above half our passage; but he Wind at that time coming about to the East, & blowing very hard drove us back to the Hill of Howth where we were in danger of being stranded, and was obliged all this day to tack it but with very little success. At Night the Wind changing a little to the Northward and still to blow almost a Storm, drove us a great way to the Southward, having found ourselves in the morning overnigh the high lands of Dungarvan, where we were obliged to beat the Seas this day & the following night. The next morning at ten made the Welch shore which proved to be part of Caernarvon Shire, & could now plainly see the Welch & Wicklow Mountains both covered with Snow, & seeing to vie with each other. The storm still continuing and our provisions sensibly diminishing obliged the Captain to endeavour to land at a small town in this Shire called Portaelune, but was beat off after having (three times in vain) attempted it. This & the prospect of still continuing at Sea where nothing could be got not a little alarmed the passengers who were many in number as well as the Ships Company, the oldest of whom never remembered to be so long on their passage before. But it pleased God this night, that the Wind changed entirely in our favour, so that at five o'Clock on Thursday Morning we came to an anchor in the harbour of Holyhead, after a most tedious passage of 75 hours.

Having immediately landed I set up at the principal inn in this small town, a place of no trade, but a great thoroughfare for Gentlemen going to or from Ireland on account of its neighbourhood to Dublin, the distance form land to land being but 20 leagues. . .

Having said but a short time here barely to refresh me, & write a few letters to my friends advising them of my arrival, hired horses at this place for Chester, distanced from hence 91 miles; and setting out from thence about nine, arrived at one at the Ferry, which divides this Island from Wales, called by the natives Portwithis; which having passed over tho' not without some danger (the boat being small & the Weather tempestuous) we arrived at the Town of Bangor at two o'Clock. Bangor is a small Town in Caernarvon Shire distanced from Holyhead 26 miles, nothing remarkable but its being a Bishops See and has a handsome Cathedral.

Having baited our horses here set out, & in about two hours having first passed a most dangerous ford, we arrived at the Foot of that Mountain called by the Natives, Penmaenmawr, whose summit seemed to pierce the Clouds; and the thought of ascending which made us shudder. I could not but notice an inscription on the sign of a paltry alehouse just before you ascend; said to be wrote by Dean Swift in one of his peregrinations to or from Ireland, viz,

Before this Mountain you do Pass, Step in & take a chearful Glass Or down the precipice you may fall And then you are gone for good & all.

And indeed the Dean gave the Public good advice to render them insensible of the imminent danger they are in while passing. Nothing can certainly outdo this Mountain for height and danger, a Wall indeed supports you from falling down the precipice, but the continual dread you are in least the jagged points of the Mountain, they lying in a tottering condition above you, should fall & crush you to pieces, the dread of which renders this part of your Journey not very entertaining. Having at last surmounted this Alps of Wales, we rid for almost an hour on a fine Strand, and turning a little more east, crossing a most wretched country, we got into a small spot surrounded on all sides by inaccessible Mountains, save a narrow defile by which we passed thro', the wretched aspect of which induced us to christen it the Valley of Despair: which having at last passed thro' heartily Jades, hungry and tired with the adventures of this troublesome [journey] my fellow travellers & I came into the little town of Conway about an hour after Sunset.

Conway, a place formerly of great Strength & one of the Strongholds of Owen Glendowr, Prince of North Wales, is a small walled town on the extremity of Caernarvon Shire the river here dividing it from Denbigh Shire, is a place of no trade thro' on account of its neighbourhood to the Sea vastly convenient. Ships of 200 Tons burthen could anchor within a Pistol Shot of the Walls. In this place we took up our quarters for this night, and never saw so much beauty blended with innocence as in the Daughter of our hostess, scarcely seventeen and beautifull as an Angel, her name Kitty Jones. As soon as morning dawned we left this town & our Welch Beauty who by her sweet deportment had captivated us all, with regret, & passing the river in a large boat was landed in Denbighshire, and rid Sixteen Miles over an ugly causeway till we came to a small town in this shire called Rhydland, where having breakfasted & diverted ourselves for some time with a Welch Harper, we arrived at Noon at Holywell in Flyntshire distanced from Rhydland 9 miles. Holywell is the largest & best built Town I have seen in North Wales; remarkable over England on account of its medicinal Wells dedicated to St. Winifred. . . . The Well is well worth a Traveller's curiosity to see. You descend into it by twelve stone steps, adjacent to which is a bason that holds about two hundred tuns of water; above it is built a fine dome in which are hung up the crutches &c. of those who have recd benefit by drinking or bathing. The quantity of water it throws up is prodigious, being One hundred Tuns in the space of a Minute, which turns three Mills just by besides several others adjacent, & seems like a great Chaldron of boiling water, always in motion; the water is of it self of a soft nature neither hot nor cold, & is very pleasant to drink; and if our Guide tells truth has performed several very surprising cures.

The Well where you bath is floored with stone surrounded with pillars on which stands a neat Chapel dedicated to St. Winifred but now turned into a Protestant School.

However to supply the loss of this Chapel, the Roman Catholics have chapells erected almost in every inn for the devotion of the Pilgrims that flock thither from all the popish parts of England. In every inn here you meet with a Priest habited like Country Gentleman & very good Companions. At the inn I dined there was one who had been marked out to me, & to whom I was particularly civil at dinner; but finding by my conversations I was not one of his set, he drank & swore like a Dragon on purpose as I imagined to disguise himself.

In North Wales they speak nothing but Welsh & if a stranger should lose his way in this country, its ten to one if he meets with one that hath English enough to set him right; if you ask them a question their answer is Dime Salsenach, or I cannot speak Saxon or English. Their bibles are all printed in Welsh in our character so that you can read but not understand them. They retain several of the popish customs; for on Sunday after morning service the whole parish go to football till the afternoon service begins & then they go to the Alehouse & play at all manner of games; which Alehouse is often kept by the Parson for their livings are very small. They have also offerings at funerals which is one of the greatest perquisites the parson hath. When the body is deposited in the church, during the burial service every person invited to the funeral lays a piece of money upon the altar to defray the dead persons charges to the Other World, which after the ceremony is over the Parson puts in his Pockett.

Having set out from Holywell after dinner, I arrived at the City of Chester at nightfall distanced from Holywell 20 miles thro' a Country appearing the more pleasant the nearer you approach England. . . .

Being obliged to wait here two days for the conveniency to going to London in the Machine, I amused myself Fryday night at the Assembly which is held here once a week & frequently by many people of fashion. I had the pleasure of dancing with a very agreable Young Lady till Twelve o'Clock & who by the oddest accident in the world I the Sunday following found to be a namesake & perhaps a relation. The next day being Satturday & market day, I was particularly pleased to see the Welsh Ladies come into the market in their laced hats, their hair hanging round their Shouldiers, and blue and scarlet clokes many of them with a Greyhound in a string in their hands. This evening I went to the playhouse (a large commodious building) where I saw Tamerlane perform by a set of Strollers. The next day being Sunday, went to the Cathedral, where by mere chance I happened to be shewed by the Sexton into the same pew in which my late charming partner sat, where having renewed our acquaintance & she politely accomodating me with her prayer-book, I found the name of Mary Bowles wrote in it, which proved to be her name. And I confessing mine our acquaintance was converted into a relationship & a nearer type of friendship. I had the pleasure of spending the remainder of this day with her at her fathers, a Gentleman of good fortune near the town, & it was with regret I parted with them at eleven at night, not before I assured them, should fortune bring me once more to these parts, not to fail visiting them.

This night at twelve we set out for London in the Machine, and at four arrived at Whitchurch where is a very fine Church, as I was informed built by the Earl of Bridge Water; breakfasting here we arrived about two at Stafford the Capital of Staffordshire, nothing here remarkable, and in two hours came to the famous City of Litchfield. . . .

Having dined here & got a fresh relay of horses we set out from hence and in half an hours ride arrived at a pleasant seat belonging to Mr. Hacket of the founder of which I was told a pleasant story. This Gentleman (who was at that time Dean of Litchfield) upon a Vacancy of the Bishopprick which happened in King Charles the Second's reign, went up to London with many other Candidates to put in for the Bishoprick. He applied to the Duchess of Portsmouth, who told him that his pretensions were so good, that he could not miss of it. "Madam," says he, "I'll lay Your Grace a 1000 Guineas I shan't get it for all that." She came into it, & went & told the King of her Wager, who answered, "God's fish! I did not at all think of him for it; but however you must not lose your wager," by which means he succeeded to it & purchasing this Estate built this fine seat which is well worth of being seen. In two hours from hence we got to Coleshill a fine Village lying on the ascent of a hill from whence you have a delicious prospect of the adjacent country, in which you see several fine Seats; and a little farther on we got to Meridan famous over England for its fine Ale. Here is an Inn the finest I saw in England built in the Modern taste like a Nobleman's Seat. In six miles more we arrived late at night at Coventry having this day travelled just 91 miles. Coventry is a very large, but ill built dirty City, consisting mostly of old buildings; the Market place is spacious & its Cross in the Middle the finest in England; it is adorned with the Statures of most of the English Kings as big as the life. There are several good Churches in it. The Cathedral is large but not handsome, the Spires are very high built of freestone & are a great ornament to the City: there are as many Malting houses as Churches & the dissenters of this place make a good figure. Their trade consists in weaving silk, great quantities of which they weekly send up to London. The greatest piece of Curiosity in Coventry is the figure of a Taylor looking out of a Window; he is dressed in a blue Coat trimmed with Silver, a black que wig, & a great lace hat, the occasion of which as recorded is this.

[The diarist here relates the Godiva legend.]

The Coachman allowing us but a very little time to refresh after our long Journey, we set out from hence at two in the Morning; at eight we reached the town of Towcester in Warwickshire, & passing thro Northamptonshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, &c. arrived at three o'clock at the town of St. Albans in Hertfordshire, where we dined, & passing over Finchly Common by daylight came into London at seven o'Clock in the evening, Tuesday the 19th March, 1762, & put up at the George Inn, Aldermanbury, being just 18 days of my Journey.

Carnegie, Andrew. The Antiquary: A Magazine Devoted to the Study of the Past. Volume: 36, January-December 1900. pp 203-206, 342-346, 366-370. London: Elliot Stock, 62 Paternoster Row. 1900.





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