John Yates, Royal Tailor - Research History

Date: [unknown] [unknown]
Location: London

John Yates, Tailor to Her Majesty

In April 2018 I commissioned the researcher, Patricia O’Neill, to do a search in the Royal Archives to see if we could validate the Royal Warrant held by John Yates (as seen on the business card passed down through the family) and to see if we could find out what kind of things he supplied to the Queen. Unfortunately, the search results were inconclusive. For the record, the report is preserved below. -- Crispin Reedy

SEARCH REPORT NATIONAL ARCHIVES

Task: To confirm Royal Warrant held by John YATES, tailor, and to search for any information regarding goods he supplied to the Royal Household.

Information provided:

Copy of John YATES’ business card:

John YATES By Special Appointment Tailor etc To Her Majesty Dress & Plain Liveries; Naval & Military Uniforms 66 Jermyn Street St James

John YATES is believed to have traded from the shop at 66 Jermyn Street from c. 1848 to 1857.

Records searched:

Directory search:

London directories were searched to establish exactly when John GATES traded from his shop at 66 Jermyn Street:

Year Directory Name Occupation Address Neighbouring properties 1844 Post Office London Directory No listing for John YATES, Tailor, in London.

No listing for 66 Jermyn St.

HARVEY & STOKES, Tailors, 67 Jermyn Street 1845 Post Office London Directory No listing for John YATES, Tailor, in London. No listing for 66 Jermyn St. HARVEY & STOKES, Tailors, 67 Jermyn Street 1846 Post Office London Directory John FOSTER

No listing for John YATES, Tailor, in London. Solicitor 66 Jermyn Street HARVEY & STOKES, Tailors, 67 Jermyn Street 1847 Post Office London Directory John YATES (p. 324) (photo taken)

John FOSTER

Leon SOLON Tailor

Solicitor

Army Agent 28 King Street, St James, Westminster Location of King Street: between 16 St James Square & 10 St James St.

66 Jermyn Street

66 Jermyn Street HARVEY & STOKES, Tailors, 67 Jermyn Street Year Directory Name Occupation Address Neighbouring properties 1848 Post Office London Directory John YATES (p.337)

James WHITCOMBE Esq Military Tailor

66 Jermyn Street

66 Jermyn Street William HARVEY, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1849 Post Office London Directory John YATES (p. 324) Military Tailor 66 Jermyn Street William HARVEY, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1851 Post Office London Directory John YATES (p. 317) (photo taken)

Capt. Henry Baring YOUNG Military Tailor

Royal Navy 66 Jermyn Street

66 Jermyn Street William HARVEY, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1853 Watkin’s Commercial & General London Directory John YATES (p. 66)

Mrs FAUCETT

Edmund A KNOWLES Esq Tailor

66 Jermyn Street

66 Jermyn Street

66 Jermyn Street William HARVEY, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1857 Post Office London Directory John YATES (p. 489) Military Tailor 66 Jermyn Street Philip ROOKE, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1858 Post Office London Directory Mrs Sarah YATES (p. 433)

No listing for John YATES, Tailor, in London. Military Tailor 66 Jermyn Street Philip ROOKE, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street 1859 Post Office London William CHATTERS

No listing for Sarah YATES or John YATES, Tailors, in London. Numismatist 66 Jermyn Street Philip ROOKE, Tailor etc, 67 Jermyn Street (Location of Jermyn Street: between 45 Haymarket and 36 St James Street. Location of 66 Jermyn Street: beside intersection of St James Street.)

/cont …. Royal Household records

LS13/153 – Lord Steward’s Department Orders to Tradesmen (1849 Mar-1851 Dec) (last volume in this series)

The entire volume was searched for any order placed with John YATES, with no result. This volume contains details of many orders placed with tailors, hatters and bootmakers, most of which appear to have been for items required as parts of or complete uniforms for servants and assistants at various palaces including Buckingham Palace, St James’ Palace, Hampton Court Palace, Kew Palace and Windsor Castle. The Items of uniform ordered included:

- From a tailor: scarlet coats; - From a hatter: gold laced hats and military gloves; - From a bootmaker: military boots; - From a tailor: long order, which included scarlet laced jackets; - From a tailor: servants’ uniforms (e.g. jackets, trousers and white waistcoats for assistants in the silver pantry); - From 2 x tailors: greatcoats for porters

LS13/152 – Lord Steward’s Department Orders to Tradesmen (1844 Apr-1849 Feb)

The preceding volume in the same series was searched from the beginning of Jan 1847 to Feb 1849 (last entry in volume). No mention of John YATES was found. This volume contains copies of orders placed with (amongst others) tailors, hatters and bootmakers for items required for various palaces.

Example of an order to a tailor (a Mr LESLIE): items required for St James’ Palace: 22 Apr 1848 Items required for St James’ Palace: 4 x scarlet coats 4 x blue waistcoats and pantaloons

LC13/2 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department Office of Robes Tradesmen supplying items for ceremonial occasions (1837 Jun-1852 Jul)

The Lord Chamberlain’s Department’s responsibilities included the royal chambers, the Office of Robes, the wardrobe, ceremonies, musicians, chapels, messengers, Yeomen of the Guard and Watermen.

This item includes a contemporary index by name of supplier, in the form of an “alphabet” (whereby all surnames beginning with the same initial letter are listed one after the other in chronological but not strict alphabetical order). It is not known whether the index is complete or reliable. The only instance of the name YATES in the index was a George YATES, Artificial Florist.

Every Quarterly Account and Annual Account relating to the period Dec 1846 to Jul 1852 was searched for any mention of J(ohn) YATES, with no result. The accounts comprise lists of individuals (under various categories of tradesmen) and the amount each tradesman was paid for goods or services supplied during the relevant period. The lists include (amongst others) the following categories of tradesmen: hatters, tailors, milliners, dressmakers, glovers, hosiers, cloak makers, shoe and boot makers. LC13/3 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department Office of Robes Tradesmen supplying items for ceremonial occasions (1852 Jul-1879 Dec)

The subsequent volume in the series has a similar arrangement. The first Quarterly Account in this volume relates to Jun Qtr 1852.

Every Quarterly Account and Annual Account relating to the period Dec 1846 to Jul 1852 was searched for any mention of J(ohn) YATES, with no result. The accounts comprise lists of individuals under various categories of tradesmen and the amount each tradesman was paid for goods or services supplied during the relevant period. The lists include (amongst others) the following categories of tradesmen: hatters, tailors, milliners, dressmakers, glovers, hosiers, cloak makers, shoe and boot makers.

This volume also includes a contemporary index by name of supplier, in the form of an “alphabet” (whereby all surnames beginning with the same initial letter are listed one after the other in chronological but not strict alphabetical order). It appears the index is incomplete and unreliable. There are no YATES listed in the index, but a G YATES was seen in the first Quarterly Account searched (for Jun Qtr 1852). He appeared in several subsequent Accounts, sometimes referred to as G YATES, sometimes simply as YATES and, on one occasion, as R YATES:

Jun Qtr 1852 – G YATES paid for Plumassiers (a Plumassier was an arranger of plumes and feathers)

Dec Qtr 1852 – G YATES paid for Plumassiers

Sept Qtr 1854 – YATES (no initial) paid £4-18s-0d for Plumassiers

Sept Qtr 1855 – YATES (no initial) paid £15-4s-0d for Plumassiers

Annual Account for year ending 31 Dec 1855 – YATES entry (no initial): tallies with amounts for Plumassiers

Sept Qtr 1856 – G YATES paid £26-2s-9d for [services as] Plumassier

Annual Account for year ending 31 Dec 1856 – recorded as G YATES

Sept Qtr 1857 – YATES (no initial), Artificial Florist, paid £11-3s-6d

Annual Account for year ending 31 Dec 1857 – R YATES appears as the last entry on a list under the category Perfumers, the preceding category to Plumassiers. He is shown to have received a payment of £11-3s-6d, so he must be YATES, the Artificial Florist recorded as receiving £11-3s-6d in the Quarterly Accounts for Sept Qtr 1857, and his inclusion on the list of Perfumers appears to have been the result of a clerical error.

Jun Qtr 1858 – G YATES, Artificial Florist, paid £46-5s-0d.

It can be seen from the above entries that the index in this volume is unreliable and that the accounts it contains are not always entirely accurate with regard to name of supplier.

Nevertheless, it is clear that none of the YATES entries relate to John YATES, Tailor.

LC9/394 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department Accounts Books: Receipts for Liveries (1819-1853)

This volume was searched from the beginning of 1847 forwards to the last entry, dated Mar 1853. No mention of YATES was found.

The volume includes detailed records of the receipt of liveries for e.g. Life Guards, Horse Guards, Warders of the Tower, Yeoman of the Guard, Household Drummers and Watermen. Receipts are signed by clerks or persons in the various regiments/groups to confirm receipt of listed items, e.g.

3 May 1848 Received for Warders of the Tower: 40 scarlet cloth coats with gold lace 40 scarlet cloth sword belts with gold lace 40 pairs scarlet cloth breeches with gold laced garters 40 velvet bonnets with ribbons & other items

1848 Received for the Chapel Boys: 10 gold laced coats 10 surcoats 10 pairs scarlet breeches 10 blue Padua waistcoats & various other items

1849 Received for Royal Horse Guards – blue: 9 gold laced coats 9 cloaks with capes 9 velvet capes 9 pairs pantaloons & other items

Fri 30 May 1851 Received for 5 Household Drummers: 5 scarlet cloth gold laced coats 5 pairs white drill trousers 5 gold laced cocked hats 5 black velvet capes 5 crimson silk sashes, fringed with gold 5 crimson cloth cloaks, fringed with gold lace

Interspersed with the receipts are notes from officials within the various regiments or groups authorising representatives to collect items and signed notes confirming receipt of items.

LC9/405– Lord Chamberlain’s Department Accounts Books: Order Books for Supplies (1845-1865)

This volume was searched from the beginning of 1847 to the end of 1858. No mention of YATES was found.

The volume lists orders given to various traders and records traders’ surname, trade and palace to be supplied. Tradesmen listed include Tailors and Robemakers. It was noticed that a Tailor named Hunter appeared to be recorded both as a Tailor and a Robemaker; as well as tailored items (e.g. suits for page boys) he was supplying Robes of the Garter and Robes of the Thistle. The volume includes a contemporary index in the form of an “alphabet” (whereby all surnames beginning with the same initial letter are listed one after the other in chronological but not strict alphabetical order). The index appears to be incomplete and by cross-checking a few lists was confirmed as unreliable.

LC9/408 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department Accounts Books: Abstract of Tenders (1833-1851) (labelled “Estimates” on front of volume)

This volume was searched from the beginning of 1847 to 17 Feb 1851 (last entry in volume). There were no entries for the year 1847. No mention of YATES was found during the period covered by the search.

This volume lists all tradesmen invited to tender for supplying goods, including specific items of clothing. For example, in 1848 tenders were invited for the Triennial supply of clothing for the Warders of the Tower. Ten tradesmen (all named) were invited to tender. One declined competing. Nine tradesmen tendered; details of each of their tenders entered in the register.

LC11 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department Bills Books (covering dates of series: 1783-1900)

The reference LC11 refers to an entire series. The Bills Books are arranged Quarterly, with four per year. The listings for the period 1845-1857 include individual Bills Books specifically relating to Upholsterers, Ironmongers and Laundry. Other quarterly Bills Books for the same period are catalogued as containing Ordinary and Extraordinary Bills. Ordinary Bills include tradesmen’s accounts, household allowances (including for lodging, travel, rail and cab expenses, luggage transportation, messengerial, laundry, stationery and newspapers). Extraordinary Bills include items which are additional to the day-to-day running of the royal residences, e.g. expenses relating to special events and other ceremonial events and expenses incurred for regalia and insignia. None of this series was searched as there was no indication in TNA’s catalogue as to which volumes (if any) were likely to include entries relating to tailors’ bills. For the year 1847, three Quarterly Bills Books for Ordinary and Extraordinary Bills were identified, but not searched.

LS2/113 – Lord Steward’s Department Tradesmen’s Bills (Jan-Mar 1854) (3rd Class relates to Tradesmen’s Bills)

The section headed “3rd Class” comprises details of tradesmen’s bills, arranged by the palace for which the items had been ordered. The remainder of the volume records salaries paid to employees for which the Lord Steward’s Department had responsibility.

The section headed “3rd Class” was searched for any bills from a tradesman with surname YATES, with no result. Items for which payment were made included liveries for under porters.

The remainder of the volume (comprising salaries) was not searched.

LS2/114 – Lord Steward’s Department Tradesmen’s Bills, Supplementary, 2nd & 3rd Class (Jan-Mar 1854) (3rd Class relates to Tradesmen’s Bills)

The section headed “3rd Class” comprises details of tradesmen’s bills, arranged by palace. The remainder of the volume records salaries paid to employees for which the Lord Steward’s Department had responsibility.

The section headed “3rd Class” was searched for any bills from a tradesman with surname YATES, with no result. The remainder of the volume (comprising salaries) was not searched.

LS32/90 – Lord Steward’s Department Tradesmen’s Bills (Apr-Jun Qtr 1848) (3rd Class relates to Tradesmen’s Bills)

This volume records details of bills from tradesmen for the supply of a variety of goods and services, mainly food and household related, but also for stationery, engraving, accessories and for artificial flowers (G YATES recorded as the supplier). Details of bills for hats and gloves were found in a section headed “Sundry Expenses”. The entire volume was searched for any tailor-related items (n.b. I did not search the lists of surnames for YATES). No mention of bills from tailors was found in this volume.

LS32/89 – Lord Steward’s Department Tradesmen’s Bills (Jan-Mar Qtr 1848) (3rd Class relates to Tradesmen’s Bills)

The preceding volume in the series has the same arrangement, recording details of bills from tradesmen for the supply of a variety of goods and services. The entire volume was searched for any tailor-related items (I did not search lists of surnames for YATES). No mention of bills from tailors was found in this volume.

No records within the following series survive for the period of interest:

LC5/31-83 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department – Office of Wardrobe: Warrant Books (none after 1782)

LC5/197-199 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department – Orders to Tradesmen for Court mourning (none after 1827)

LC12 – Lord Chamberlain’s Department – Office of Robes Accounts & Suppliers of goods to the Office of Robes (none before 1860)

Apr 2018 Patricia O’Neill patricia@london-archive-searches.com www.london-archive-searches.com